Jerome Sullivan

Working as a UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guide all over the world has taught me a lot about what it means to share your passion! Curiosity is the word that defines me, that of discovering mountains and the humans who love them.

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Today, my life is shared (but the border is thin and often gets lost) between my amateur and professional practice of mountaineering and climbing. Travelling and discovering new walls with Johanna, my wife, or with my friends, and facilitating alpine dreams by working as a guide are my motivations!

Here is a (non-exhaustive) list of ascents that have marked my life as a mountaineer and nourished my dreams for many years!

“Royal Flush” (1000m, 7c) ,Fitz roy, alpine style, December 2011. 5th alpine style ascent of the east pillar of the Fitz roy.
First free ascent of the DRU West Pillar since the collapse. Combination of the “la voie des papas” and 300m of  new pitches “los gitanos”. 1000m,7b, Chamonix, March 2012. Premio FEDME (Spanish climbing federation prize) for the best European ascent.)
First Ascent of “Zexy Nice” 7b, 400m, T.A, Morocco, Rif, April 2012, trad.
First Ascent of the AKKA 47 350m,7b+,Taghia, trad, Morocco
First Ascent of “escalar puede matar” Los Arenales, Argentina, 7b+ 300m, trad
First Ascent of “El pillar del sol naciente” (1000M; 7b, A1 M6WI6) Cerro Murallon, Patagonia. November 2012. Premio FEDME best ascent of the year.
First Ascent of Iliad (900m, TD ) and first general ascent of Mont Boucansaud. Revelations, Alaska, March 2014
First Ascent of the Pic Pyramid and opening of the “Odyssee” (1100m, M7, 6b, 90°, A1) massif des Révélations, Alaska, March 2014.
First Ascent of ” Hasta las webas “, Cerro Riso Patron. Patagonia, September 2015.

Piolet d’or 2016.

First Ascent of “Ballas y Chocolate” (900m WI5+, A2, M6+) on Cerro Adela, Patagonia, October 2015, FEDME Award for the best ascent of the year.


First Ascent of “Metrophobia” (1700m, 5.11d, A2, 120 degrees). Approach by kayak, 340km in total autonomy. Greenland.


First Ascent of the needle “El Faro” on the East face of Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia, October 2018.  “La Milagrosa”, 1200m, A3, M7, 6a.

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