This route has gone completely under the radar, shaded by it’s harder neighbors. Yet it is a hand jam festival from the beginning to the end! Jayesh is visiting from Sweden and cracks now hold no secrets for him. Since his last visit where we did “crack school” in cadarese (Italy crack paradise) he has mastered the jams!
The grades are quite sandbagged and it’s impressive to think of the first ascentionist with their wodden wedges and big boots! For sure a historic route and another gervasutti landmark!
The summit it really cool as it is in the middle of a constellation of climbing monuments: Grand capucin, Tacul, Pillier des trois pointes, Pillier gervasutti… Yet another! No bolts on the route but the belays are bolted. Rapping Police des glaciers is the best descent option. Sustained 5c/6a climbing all the way to the top!