Last September, while I was climbing the Verdon for almost a month, Anne joined me for 2 days to discover the gorges. Although a seasoned climber, she had never yet tasted the pleasure of the drops of water of the Verdon.
We start with Atelier Clandestin, a superb route whose key length is a pillar of 35m in 6c, enough to get into the swing.
The 2nd day we opt for a classic in 6b+ (sandbag) Rivière d’Argent. The pich are all more beautiful one than the other, and the styles vary, it’s a must !
Two beautiful days of discovery that makes you want to see more !
This route has gone completely under the radar, shaded by it’s harder neighbors. Yet it is a hand jam festival from the beginning to the end! Jayesh is visiting from Sweden and cracks now hold no secrets for him. Since his last visit where we did “crack school” in cadarese (Italy crack paradise) he has mastered the jams!
The grades are quite sandbagged and it’s impressive to think of the first ascentionist with their wodden wedges and big boots! For sure a historic route and another gervasutti landmark!
The summit it really cool as it is in the middle of a constellation of climbing monuments: Grand capucin, Tacul, Pillier des trois pointes, Pillier gervasutti… Yet another! No bolts on the route but the belays are bolted. Rapping Police des glaciers is the best descent option. Sustained 5c/6a climbing all the way to the top!
Participants have been leading their first trad route, learning how to place cams, how to do artificial climbing and mutlipich.. and how to jam in cracks !
During July’s course we’ve been craging in Les lames fontaines on some really good splitter cracks. After a nice night in the Refuge du plan we did the Eperon des Minettes, a very wild multipich on Le peigne, just 2 bolts on the entire route!