Author: Johanna Sullivan

1st taste of the Verdon’s multipich

Last September, while I was climbing the Verdon for almost a month, Anne joined me for 2 days to discover the gorges. Although a seasoned climber, she had never yet tasted the pleasure of the drops of water of the Verdon.

We start with Atelier Clandestin, a superb route whose key length is a pillar of 35m in 6c, enough to get into the swing.

The 2nd day we opt for a classic in 6b+ (sandbag) Rivière d’Argent. The pich are all more beautiful one than the other, and the styles vary, it’s a must !

Two beautiful days of discovery that makes you want to see more !

Well done Anne

Granit Paradise

We’ve spend 3 days in this remote and wild granit paradise. The rock is perfect, the food really good and the hutkeepers gives you a ton of smiles and advices.

We started with the rout Gogna on the Sccoglio di Mroz. This pyramid is on the way to the hut, and it’s worth to stop by !

The 2nd day, starting from the hut, we’ve climb the more alpine “Becco de la Tribolazione” . We did the Malassora rout, 2h approach + 45min scrambling to the base and 250m of yellow granit.

On the 3rd day, after this cool adventure we wanted something with a short approach. So we’ve climbed on the Bastionate, 45min from the hut

A place to discover !!

This route has gone completely under the radar, shaded by it’s harder neighbors. Yet it is a hand jam festival from the beginning to the end! Jayesh is visiting from Sweden and cracks now hold no secrets for him. Since his last visit where we did “crack school” in cadarese (Italy crack paradise) he has mastered the jams!

The grades are quite sandbagged and it’s impressive to think of the first ascentionist with their wodden wedges and big boots! For sure a historic route and another gervasutti landmark!

The summit it really cool as it is in the middle of a constellation of climbing monuments: Grand capucin, Tacul, Pillier des trois pointes, Pillier gervasutti… Yet another! No bolts on the route but the belays are bolted. Rapping Police des glaciers is the best descent option. Sustained 5c/6a climbing all the way to the top!

A glimpse from the last crack climbing schools

We’ve been teaching several crack climbing school this summer.

Participants have been leading their first trad route, learning how to place cams, how to do artificial climbing and mutlipich.. and how to jam in cracks !

During July’s course we’ve been craging in Les lames fontaines on some really good splitter cracks. After a nice night in the Refuge du plan we did the Eperon des Minettes, a very wild multipich on Le peigne, just 2 bolts on the entire route!

TOPO ÉPERON DES MINETTES

3rd to 6th SEPTEMBER 2020

GOALS :

• Improve your technics
• Develop your crack climbing skills
  • finger jam
  • hand jam
  • ringlock
  • fist jam
  • Offwidth
• Placing protections (cams,nuts,slings,..)
• Multipitch rope management

ORGANISATION :

• 4 to 6 participants
• 4 day course
  • 2 training days (1 guide)
  • 2 multipich days (2 guides depending of the number of participants )
• Location depending on group skills/ weather . (Option B Val d’Orco / Cadarese in Italy)

PRE-REQUISITE :

• Leading 6a climbs (Indoor or outdoor)

GEAR :

Personal

• harness
• climbing shoes
• helmet
• belay device
• 1 120cm sling
• 1 dynamic sling
• 1 prussik

Group

• Ropes
• Cams/wires

PRICE :

Starting at 100euros/day/person

(depending of the number of participants)